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General Beekeeping / Re: Removing bees, they absconded into tree
« Last post by apisbees on Today at 06:16:02 AM »
This is a hard one to answer with 100 percent accuracy but. Are you sure the queen is in the hive? check if they start to build cells. Was there Queen cells in the cutout? If yes there could be 2 queens. was the colony separated in 2 different areas in the tree, if so could have been 2 colonies. also from time to time you do find 2 queens in one hive. So I would think that there could be a queen in the swarm, unless you set up the hive to far away and the bees could not communicate the new hive location. A breeze could take the sent away from the cluster. You also said that you ran out of daylight so the that could find each other did and clustered together.
OR I don't know. It requires more investigation.
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General Beekeeping / Re: Customer questions regarding heat treating
« Last post by Bakersdozen on Today at 06:07:54 AM »
Possibly it's a matter of TMI (too much information).  Simple yes or no answers might be best.  They are not really looking to be educated, but they know enough to know that imported honey has been heated and is not as healthy as the sideliner beekeeper has to offer.  Your label, if there is room, might be a good place to use words like pure, natural, raw, or what best answer potential questions.
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General Beekeeping / Re: Beehives in front of house in suburbia
« Last post by Bakersdozen on Today at 06:00:15 AM »
I wouldn't do it.  It's an invitation for problems.  Remember when locating colonies, Out of sight, out of mind.  Think of all the people who access the front of that house.  Mailmen, deliveries, neighborhood children, visitors, homeowner etc.  The first time the neighbor has a problem with a honey bee, they might change their minds.
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General Beekeeping / Re: Aggressive bees with potent stingers
« Last post by Bakersdozen on Today at 05:54:48 AM »
Only work bees at night if you have to save them from imminent danger.
Not being familiar with your environment, I would ask if the nectar flow is still on?  If it has stopped, bees will be very cranky.
If there are no pests like skunks making them cranky, you may need to requeen.  Divide and conquer.  Separate the two hive bodies for several days.  It will make it easier to find the queen.
I believe it was apisbees that recently posted about older bees packing more of a punch when they sting.  I am not sure I am correct.  Maybe apis will verify this.
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General Beekeeping / Re: Bee genetics
« Last post by apisbees on Today at 05:40:08 AM »
"Very interesting indeed! Makes sense to then remove the first set of queen cells. Would a hive tend to remove a inferior emergency queen after sometime, or is it common for an emergency queen to live for years?"
They generally get superseded fairly quickly, but is hard on the hive build up. 20 days no egg followed by a 4 or 5 week of poor egg laying before the superseded queen is laying

"So if I was to take the whole remove all the eggs/larvae approach, I'd have to remove pretty much everything except the very large larvae? I'm not sure how practical this would be. I'd just like to save petrol money if possible by not visiting again five days later but it seems it may be best to do so."
I cull short cells. When cells are drawn by young nurse bees and are fed an abundance of good royal jelly the bees draw the cells out long. short cells to me means cell started from older larva, poorly fed, or poor quality of royal jelly.

"Is there anyway to tell which bees are the young nurse bees? Are they simply the bees that are smaller than the rest?"
The bees that are on frames that have open brood. These are the bees that are making royal jelly and beebread being fed to the larva
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General Beekeeping / Re: Aggressive bees with potent stingers
« Last post by apisbees on Today at 05:16:03 AM »
When you receive an accidental sting from a bee you put your finger or hand on or one that has gotten stuck in your clothing. these are bees that may not bee the proper age for their venom to be at full potency. Where a just under 3 week old guard bees venom sack will be full of potent venom at the ready to be released into it's victim.
# 1 Rule of beekeeping! Do not work bees at night.
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General Beekeeping / Re: Beehives in front of house in suburbia
« Last post by apisbees on Today at 04:55:57 AM »
Unless there is a high fence (6 foot) to divert the bees up and over peoples heads, the bees will be flying into people and they will be freaking out so I would avoid it. Also the temptation for the neighbor hood boys to throw stones at them, they will come out mad and could sting some innocent bystander.
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General Beekeeping / Re: Customer questions regarding heat treating
« Last post by apisbees on Today at 04:39:17 AM »
As CBT said, tell them. I do not pasteurize my honey. and if they push for more information, let them know you store and process the honey at temperatures below summer inside hive temperatures.
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General Beekeeping / Re: Aggressive bees with potent stingers
« Last post by CBT on Yesterday at 11:29:53 PM »
If You use a white light at night yes that light becomes a stinger target. If you must open a hive at night use a red light. It may help. It doesn’t take long for the bees to school you about leaving them alone at night.
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General Beekeeping / Re: Aggressive bees with potent stingers
« Last post by Jen on Yesterday at 11:18:55 PM »
Without seeing what going on in the aggressive hive, like pictures, it's hard make an accurate account of that hive.

When was the last time you treated for mites?

And did you maybe see the queen? Or, eggs laid by the queen at the bottom of the cells. Not eggs laid by worker bees?

Those would be my most important questions.

And yeah, if you mess with a hive after the sun goes down, or even late into the evening, you're pretty much going to get nailed real good. They bees think you are a bear or skunk. 
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